This morning began just fine. We woke up, checked out late without a late fee, and ate cereal in the common area. It was a quick metro ride to the Termini station, and we would be arriving an hour early for our train so we were in no rush. Our first afternoon here was spent waiting in line for information about the train, and we used that information to formulate a plan. With train times written on a post-it note, and those times designated as "free" or "reservation required", we headed for the timetables to determine which platform we'd fine our 11:26 train. We found no such information. Instead, we found 11:06 and 11:25 trains. Neither of which matched the times on the post-it. We were baffled. One of those trains would require a reservation that we didn't have and there wasn't enough time to go stand in the slowest information line ever.
We decided to head for the 11:06 train and ask someone if it required a reservation. If not, we'd hop on. Immediately upon confirming the decision, the platform number for the train flashed across the screen and the giant mob that had been waiting under it turn and rushed in the opposite direction. We were pulled apart by the massive crowd. We finally got back to each other, but we had been pushed to the end of a line converging on the platform. We found a group of railway officials who informed us that this was the "free" train and the 11:25 required reservations. All of the people who had shoved past us were getting ready to fight their way onto the only free train to Naples. That was our train.
With less force than expected, we wriggled our way onto the first car to the second level and secured two seats next to an old woman. While filling out our rail passes, an English speaking group next to us began excitedly reveling in the fact that they were all from Texas. What a coincidence. Sharing the prideful home-state that is our great Texas, we conversed a little about the cities we resided in. We didn't commit to the conversation though; we didn't want to talk over the people sitting between us. It turns out that the group was actually kind of annoying. One of the women was explaining her job as a 6th grade literature teacher and throwing markers at her students. Overhearing their cliche conversation, we grew slightly insecure that our conversations might sound similarly obnoxious to non-Americans. Also, no one came to check our tickets/passes, so we wasted a day of travel. Boo.
The rest of the ride was pleasant. The train was running 24 minutes behind, but we didn't mind. We had our books and decent scenery. Towards the end of the journey the older Italian woman struck up a conversation. It was a short, simple, and choppy conversation given the language difference, but the woman was kind all the same. She seemed to prefer our company over the other loud Texans.
We had been told by a fellow traveler that Naples would be the most disgusting city we'd ever seen, but the station we arrived in was just fine. It was actually nicer than a few others we've landed in. We were relieved by this, but it was short lived. Upon stepping out into the city square in front of the station, our eyes and hears were severely accosted. That traveler had not exaggerated. Pardon the French, but this place is a sh*thole. What parts of the street that aren't covered with cheap wares placed on sheets are covered with garbage. There isn't a single cobblestone in this city that isn't home to litter.
Google maps guided us down a filthy main-street, past a couple who were screaming at each other, and across a street with zero pedestrian guidelines. Google informed us that we had arrived, but we didn't see any sign of our hotel. Aaron called reception to get directions and was answered with extremely poor English (the hotel's website said they were fluent). The receptionist could not understand that we were asking for directions so we hung up and went into another hotel for help. The receptionist pulled out a map, drew a line leading to the opposite side of the train stations, and circled a block. Thankful, we followed her directions to the side street of the block she'd circled. Again, we couldn't find our accommodation. Frustrated, we headed back to the station in search of more reliable information. Determined to avoid walking back to the station, Aaron tried one last time to get information from another hotel desk. Third time's a charm! We were finally pointed in the right direction. We found our hotel!
Just to be clear, our "three star hotel" is actually worse than all but a few hostels we've been in.
We spent the rest of the afternoon attempting to book hostels for our next few destinations. Previously, booking hostels 3-5 days in advance has worked out pretty well. But not this time. Italy is expensive, more so during peak season. All that was left to book was expensive B&B's and expensive but crappy hostels (expensive meaning 30-60 euros a night per person). In fact, Venice seems to be so expensive that we've cut that visit down by two nights and are staying in an AirBnB. We'll see how that goes. We'll probably also trade time in Milan for time in Genoa, which is about 50% cheaper (20 euros a night per person).
We finally figured all of that out, shut the laptop, and went out for dinner. The hotel is actually pretty close to most of Naples' major attractions, so we were surprised to find that the streets were just as filthy towards the city center. We also noticed that the streets lacked defined lanes and almost every single car had body damage. Moreover, trying to cross the street was like playing chicken.
Dinner was decent. Pizza here is not the pizza we have at home. Its more sauce, less cheese, watery, and you're given a butter knife to cut it yourself.
In conclusion, we strongly strongly STRONGLY dislike Naples. Hopefully our excursion tomorrow will make it all worth it. Have you figured out where we're headed yet?
We decided to head for the 11:06 train and ask someone if it required a reservation. If not, we'd hop on. Immediately upon confirming the decision, the platform number for the train flashed across the screen and the giant mob that had been waiting under it turn and rushed in the opposite direction. We were pulled apart by the massive crowd. We finally got back to each other, but we had been pushed to the end of a line converging on the platform. We found a group of railway officials who informed us that this was the "free" train and the 11:25 required reservations. All of the people who had shoved past us were getting ready to fight their way onto the only free train to Naples. That was our train.
With less force than expected, we wriggled our way onto the first car to the second level and secured two seats next to an old woman. While filling out our rail passes, an English speaking group next to us began excitedly reveling in the fact that they were all from Texas. What a coincidence. Sharing the prideful home-state that is our great Texas, we conversed a little about the cities we resided in. We didn't commit to the conversation though; we didn't want to talk over the people sitting between us. It turns out that the group was actually kind of annoying. One of the women was explaining her job as a 6th grade literature teacher and throwing markers at her students. Overhearing their cliche conversation, we grew slightly insecure that our conversations might sound similarly obnoxious to non-Americans. Also, no one came to check our tickets/passes, so we wasted a day of travel. Boo.
The rest of the ride was pleasant. The train was running 24 minutes behind, but we didn't mind. We had our books and decent scenery. Towards the end of the journey the older Italian woman struck up a conversation. It was a short, simple, and choppy conversation given the language difference, but the woman was kind all the same. She seemed to prefer our company over the other loud Texans.
We had been told by a fellow traveler that Naples would be the most disgusting city we'd ever seen, but the station we arrived in was just fine. It was actually nicer than a few others we've landed in. We were relieved by this, but it was short lived. Upon stepping out into the city square in front of the station, our eyes and hears were severely accosted. That traveler had not exaggerated. Pardon the French, but this place is a sh*thole. What parts of the street that aren't covered with cheap wares placed on sheets are covered with garbage. There isn't a single cobblestone in this city that isn't home to litter.
Just to be clear, our "three star hotel" is actually worse than all but a few hostels we've been in.
We spent the rest of the afternoon attempting to book hostels for our next few destinations. Previously, booking hostels 3-5 days in advance has worked out pretty well. But not this time. Italy is expensive, more so during peak season. All that was left to book was expensive B&B's and expensive but crappy hostels (expensive meaning 30-60 euros a night per person). In fact, Venice seems to be so expensive that we've cut that visit down by two nights and are staying in an AirBnB. We'll see how that goes. We'll probably also trade time in Milan for time in Genoa, which is about 50% cheaper (20 euros a night per person).
We finally figured all of that out, shut the laptop, and went out for dinner. The hotel is actually pretty close to most of Naples' major attractions, so we were surprised to find that the streets were just as filthy towards the city center. We also noticed that the streets lacked defined lanes and almost every single car had body damage. Moreover, trying to cross the street was like playing chicken.
Dinner was decent. Pizza here is not the pizza we have at home. Its more sauce, less cheese, watery, and you're given a butter knife to cut it yourself.
In conclusion, we strongly strongly STRONGLY dislike Naples. Hopefully our excursion tomorrow will make it all worth it. Have you figured out where we're headed yet?
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